VATRA’s Journey to the ‘Land of Eagles’ on the Centennial Anniversary of Albanian Independence

Members of VATRA, The Pan-Albanian Federation of America, along with the organization’s president, Dr. Gjon Buçaj, embarked on a journey to sacred lands where Albanian patriots, time and again, have shed blood in their sacrifice for freedom.  This 28th of November marks Albania’s 100^th Independence Day. The purpose of VATRA’s trip was to pay homage to those who have made this Jubilee year possible.

On 4 October, the delegation arrived in Kosova. The intended sites of historic importance were to be visited no predetermined order, but as circumstances allowed. Their first stop in Kosova was the Jashari compound in Drenica. Adem Jashari represents the cornerstone of Kosova’s independence. When peaceful means of establishing a sovereign state in Kosova based on a free and fair referendum failed and a government turned against its citizens, the Jashari family took up arms to defend themselves.  Many were moved by the well-preserved site of the Jashari compound were men, women and children alike were massacred by heavy artillery including rocket propelled grenades and heavy shelling which had rained down on their rooftops like World War II fighter bombers on military targets. Dr. Buçaj had the fortuitous opportunity to meet one of the few surviving members of the Jashari Family who happened to be studying abroad in Germany during the time of the Serbian paramilitary operation that resulted in the mass murder of 64 members of her family. She declared to Dr. Buçaj her intentions to keep the family history alive by teaching her three children about the price of freedom. It cost the Jashari family the greatest sacrifice.

Next, VATRA visited the location of Isa Boletini’s fort-home, kulla. His family had taken the name of their adopted town, Boletin, as their last name. The delegation was reminded of a well-known anecdote regarding Boletini’s visit at the British Foreign Office, where it was customary that no one enters carrying any sort of weapon. On the way out of the meeting, when Boletini’s gun was handed back to him on a velvet tray, the host stated in jest that, “tomorrow the newspapers all over Europe will report that Isa Boletini was never disarmed anywhere except in London.” Lifting one side of his thick hand-woven vest while exposing the butt of a second, hidden handgun, Boletini replied, “not even here.”

On 6 Ooctober, VATRA visited the Blessed Mother Teresa Cathedral in Prishtina, met with Fr. Lush Gjergji, the Vicar of the Archdiocese of Kosova, and toured the verdant church grounds. They were reminded of the countless donations that were made by Albanians of all religious backgrounds from around the globe for the construction of the only cathedral in the world dedicated to Blessed Mother Teresa.

On 7 October, VATRA visited the tomb of Kosova’s first and most beloved President, Dr. Ibrahim Rugova. Dr. Buçaj laid a wreath at Dr. Rugova’s tomb honoring the man who was not only responsible for bringing the case for Kosova’s independence to the free world, but for also bringing the idea of the national highway project uniting Albania’s capital, Tirana, to Prishtina. Remarkably, it was Dr. Rugova who ceremoniously laid the foundation for the Blessed Mother Teresa Cathedral.

The delegation also met with several intellectuals including Prof. Nusret Pllana who had recently returned from a successful book promotion tour in the US sponsored by VATRA. Prof. Pllana’s book, “The Terror of Occupier Serbia over Albanians” was met with great enthusiasm by people eager to raise international awareness of war crimes and atrocities committed in the last decade.

Once in Albania, VATRA met with the American Ambassador, Mr. Arvizu, on 8 October at the Rogner hotel in downtown Tirana. Dr. Buçaj informed the Ambassador of VATRA’s plans for the centennial anniversary year to visit sites where Albanian patriots had met their fate while laying the framework for Albania’s sovereignty. Dr. Buçaj had thanked the Ambassador for his participation at the events in NYC commemorating VATRA’s 100^th Anniversary in April. They also discussed the current hunger strike in which formerly persecuted citizens under the communist regime were seeking court ordered compensation for time lost in unjust prison sentences. Both Ambassador Arvizu and Dr. Buçaj agreed that full compensation had yet to be dispersed, but there were other ways and means of pressuring the government to fulfill its promises and obligations. Dr. Buçaj stressed that the process of compensation and the integration of the formerly persecuted citizens has continuously encountered resistance by former communists who still hold positions of authority in the Albanian government.

Later that afternoon, the delegation met with renowned historian and author, Prof. Beqir Meta. They discussed the successful seminar and celebration of VATRA’s 100^th Anniversary in NYC as well as the various lectures and seminars on Albania’s 100^th Anniversary being held throughout Albanian-speaking lands including an upcoming international conference that will take place in Tirana, a few days before the main celebrations on the 28^th of November. They exchanged opinions on many topics, including the hunger strike and the vile attempts to exploit it for political gain. Prof. Meta also explained that more competent and objective professors and scholars are needed in Albania, as the current situation is such that political parties play an unhealthy role in education.

That very day, Dr. Buçaj visited the hunger strikers stepping into their make-shift tent and expressing regret at their situation and deteriorating health. As a member of a persecuted family himself, Dr. Buçaj emphasized that there are other ways to go about tackling their grievances. When the coordinator of the strike introduced himself to VATRA, Dr. Buçaj responded with words of stern criticism for leading and initiating such an extreme form of protest stating that the life of each individual has a greater value than anything material.

On 9 October, VATRA met with Baba Edmond Brahimaj, head of the World Bektashi Order, at the Tirana Hotel Lobby where they exchanged pleasantries and discussed VATRA’s current agenda. Baba Edmond was pleased to meet with VATRA’s members and wished them well on future endeavors related to unifying Albanians in cooperation, patriotism, and advancement.

On the afternoon of 9 October, VATRA visited the Castle of Gjergj Kastrioti (commonly known by the rank and title Skanderbeg—comparable to a modern era five-star general) located in Kruja. The group interacted with numerous vendors and merchants on the narrow cobblestone walkways leading to the castle hilltop. One such Krutan sold Dr. Buçaj an autographed copy of his book on the history of Kruja and the Kastroti family. The delegation also visited an interactive museum of a 19^th century home along with a guided tour.

Upon returning to Hotel Tirana, VATRA met with Rasim Hasanaj, chairman of the State Committee on Cults, to inform him of the trip agenda and to promote goodwill. A well-known journalist, Ilir Buçpapaj, also joined the meeting and offered insight into potential routes of travel through Northern Albanian to Gjakova, Kosova, where VATRA’s journey would eventually culminate. Mr. Buçpapaj described his current projects to Dr. Buçaj revealing that he was presently editing a documentary on VATRA’s 100^th anniversary celebrations.

On the morning of 10 October, VATRA traveled north to Montenegro via Hani i Hotit to meet with Nikollë Camaj, Albanian activist and candidate for Montenegrin Parliament. Mr. Camaj had already arranged to greet the visitors at the border town of Tuz and escort them to the most significant historical sites in Montenegro regarding Albania’s independence. Mr. Camaj initially drove VATRA to Ded Gjo’Luli’s restored home in the mountains beyond Tuz which straddle Albania’s northwestern border. VATRA members carefully surveyed the home-turned-museum and studied pictures and paintings of Dede Gjo’Luli’s family. Dede Gjo’ Luli’s descendant and custodian of the house, a young man in his early twenties, thanked VATRA for its recognition and appreciation of the patriots that made Albania’s independence possible. Before departing, Dr. Buçaj encouraged the young man to continue Ded Gjo’ Luli’s legacy because his lofty ideals and great vision for Albania have yet to be realized.

The manner in which Ded Gjo’ Luli conducted himself while battling on two fronts (against the occupying Turks and the treacherous Slavs), was nothing short of noble, honorable and chivalrous. Albanians recall with pride the response Ded Gjo’Luli gave when told that so many soldiers remain dead on the battlefield: “that’s where men die!” The most poignant aspect of his bold reply is that he was already aware his son was one of the fallen.

The next stop was a remote hilltop in Deçiq known as Bratila—the site where Ded Gjo’ Luli, with his Malësorë, first raised the Albanian flag on April 6, 1911, the year before it was flown in the southern city of Vlora on November 28, 1912. The rocky and rugged hilltop allows for a vantage point stretching from Lake Shkodra to the Albanian Alps. It was a strategic location that allowed the flag to be seen for miles in multiple directions. Today, a worthy monument with a flagstaff stands where Albanians gather annually to raise the flag in honor, remembrance, and celebration.

VATRA members ventured down the hill to the outskirts of Montenegro’s capital, Podgorica, to an unmarked location on an obscure bridge where Isa Boletini was ambushed and killed. The delegation observed a moment of silence for the fallen warrior who dedicated his life to the national cause.

That evening, at Hotel Tirana, VATRA met with author, poet, and communist regime prison survivor, Uran Kostreci. He recalled with great pride and affection that he was once the VATRA home office custodian. Mr. Kostreci endorsed VATRA’s itinerary to the various sites of national importance.

On 11 October, VATRA traveled north on the recently inaugurated National Highway to Gjakova, Kosova. En route to Gjakove, the delegation passed through the regions of Mirdita, Kukësi, Puka and Tropoja. The stretch of road from Kukësi to Puka was commonly referred to as “the road of death” due to the high number of fatal car accidents that occur. The travelers stopped at the mountainside village of Arst where Dr. Buçaj was born and raised. There he recalled several episodes of his youth including many in which communist informers or agents would meander alongside homes hoping to overhear information linked to freedom fighter whereabouts. During the stopover, Dr. Buçaj interacted with locals who were eager to share food, drink and home in typical display of the unmatched hospitality that is synonymous with Albanian culture.

On the morning of 12 October, having arrived in Gjakova the previous night, the guests attended an academic seminar on Ali Iber Nezaj which preceded the unveiling of the monument in his honor. Scholars from Albanian lands and the greater diaspora packed the auditorium and flooded the lobby which had been converted into an art gallery showcasing works by contemporary Albanian artists. The lectors discussed various topics related to Nezaj and the early struggle for independence. One speaker highlighted an instance when Catholic Albanians were being threatened by some fanatic Muslims with Ali Ibra swiftly quelling such notions of division and violence. He kept threatened Catholics in his home for many months. Ali Ibra stated that Albanians would not fall prey to lies and conjectures of their formidable enemies and he would defend all Albanians regardless of religion. Another speaker underlined Ali Ibra’s level of integrity and character which he demonstrated by refusing the title of pasha. Ali Ibra would not be bought. It was also mentioned that Ali Ibra’s monument would be erected in Kosova; however, he belongs to all Albanians because he and his contemporaries fought for one, unified “Land of Eagles.” Someone conveyed that after separation by an iron curtain for nearly half a century, Albanians were finally beginning to reacquaint themselves with one another. One speaker surmised that those in Albania may have suffered greater in one aspect than Albanians in Kosova whose enemy was more easily identifiable—the oppressive Serbs. Whereas in Albania, the enemy was a foreign ideology that had infected the populace and turned brother against brother, husband against wife, son against father, etc.

Afterwards, VATRA members joined the throngs of spectators gathered in a small square in downtown Gjakova for the inauguration of the Ali Iber Nezaj monument. The President of Kosova, Atifete Jahijaga, and the Prime Minister of Albania, Dr. Sali Berisha, were on hand at the ceremony and each addressed the stubborn crowd that withstood pouring rain for the momentous event. Finally, the tall and proud likeness of Ali Iber Nezaj was unveiled and the citizens of Gjakova along with guests from all over Europe and America, cheered in overwhelming joy.

The key figure in initiating this project, Halit Nezaj, invited honored guests, friends and family to a luncheon offered by the Nezaj family.

There was another monument inauguration taking place simultaneously in a distant village, which Dr. Buçaj insisted on visiting. That monument was in honor of Isa Boletini, in Isniq, his birthplace. The monument was erected in a quaint park in the heart of the village with the Albanian flag hoisted only several feet away. Against the backdrop of the new statue, there was a large banner raised with Isa Boletini’s picture and his own words: “I’ll be fine, when Albania is fine.”  There, Vatrans had the opportunity to meet with some of the organizers of this event including a living member of the Boletini family.

VATRA’s delegation and president concluded their arduous journey in the predawn hours of 13 October when they departed Nene Tereza Airport having paid tribute to the Albanian champions of freedom.

B.L.E.